Yemenite jewelry is considered one of the oldest filigree styles in the world. Yehuda Tassa focuses on Yemenite filigree and granulation which some consider a ‘lost art’. For generations Yemenite filigree knowledge was passed from father to sons. The center of Yemenite filigree is the capital city Sana’a. According to records there were about 300 jewelers in downtown Sana’a. However other cities such as Haban also developed unique styles.

The westernization of Yemen accelerated the decline of traditional silver work via economic influences, new tools etc. Technology has had a major impact on production of Yemenite jewelry, with new tools that shorten production time. For best results, some detailed filigree elements are still done by hand with traditional methods.

Filigree jewelry making was considered a respected profession among the Yemenite. The profession was an exclusive domain of the Jews, thus the jewelry has cultural as well as religious applications, and many pieces of Judaica were made in filigree. The Yemenite Jews worked primarily with silver, and occasionally with gold for special requests. The style and design was retained after the Jews immigrated to Israel.

The custom of many Jews to get rid of old jewelry and create a new pieces with the old materials was very common, hence the loss of much old jewelry. Some pieces saved by European tourists who bought jewelry in the 19th and 20th centuries are now part of the collection of Theodore Graf. (Vienna Museum)